Metairie
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a
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New
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Louisian
a
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Store |
Metairie
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Supplies
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| Tips and Techniques Updated 1/1/10 |
| Scrappersaurus Scrapbook Services and Supply, LLC |
| Scrappersaurus Scrapbook Services & Supply, LLC P. O. Box 520, Mandeville, LA 70470-0520 www.Scrappersaurus.com Scrappersaurus@Yahoo.com 504-258-1718 Hurricane Preparedness for Crafters Hurricanes are serious, and we need to be serious about how we prepare for them. As crafters, we do not want to see our creations destroyed, however, we may be faced with having to leave some things behind if we evacuate. Speaking strictly from personal experience, we would like to offer some suggestions on how to prepare things relating to your crafting and other important papers necessary during or after an evacuation. FOR MORE INFORMATION ON GENERAL HURRICANE PREPAREDNESS AND WHAT TO DO IN AN EMERGENCY OR FOR A HURRICANE THREAT, please visit an official governmental website on the Internet. We have listed a few below, and you can find many more by simply typing in Hurricane Preparedness into your browser. • http://www.whitehouse.gov/the_press_office/Presidential-Proclamation-National-Hurricane- Preparedness-Week/ • http://www.noaa.gov/HAW2/english/disaster_prevention.shtml • http://www.hhs.gov/news/facts/hurricane.html • http://www.hhs.gov/news/facts/hurricane.html • Create several copies of an Identification Tag to be stored with your photos in Ziplocs*, and laminate them if at all possible. This Identification Tag should have: o Your full name o Cell phone number, including the Area Code o E-mail address o If you are comfortable with it, you can put your postal mailing address on it, however, most people are easily reached by cell phone or e-mail these days. • Place ALL PHOTOGRAPHS into Ziploc bags with an I.D. tag and a couple packs of desiccant or silica powder in each one to absorb any moisture that may be in the air inside the bag when you seal it. (Remember, most of us in the hurricane danger zone are in a very humid area, so there’s bound to be moisture in the bags when you seal them.) • Keep out at least one recent photo of each family member and any pets. Make sure you are also in the photo with your pet(s), thus proving you are the true owner.) Bring these photographs with you when you evacuate, also in a sealed Ziploc bag with an I.D. tag in it, “just in case”. (See below for other important items to include in your Emergency Evacuation Kit.) • Place groupings of these smaller sets of photos in Ziplocs into a larger gallon-sized Ziploc, also with a couple packs of desiccant and another I.D. tag. • Take all of your sealed packs of photos (and memorabilia, too, if you’ve got it packed) and place them into a heavy-duty construction or lawn-and-leaf bag, which you should tie shut with a strong cord or zip tie. Take good quality shipping tape and wrap it tightly over the cord or zip tie, several times. Place this into another large construction or lawn-and-leaf bag, and wrap it up the same way. Remember to include an I.D. tag in each of the bags. • Place the entire construction or lawn-and-leaf bag with all of the photos and memorabilia into an airtight (if possible) plastic or rubber container, or at least a bin with a snap-on lid. A bin with a locking lid is even better. Again using good quality shipping tape, tape around the entire bin, wrapping around it at least twice. • Store these bins at least four (4) feet above floor level, preferably on an inside room closet shelf. • If you must leave behind albums, seal them up the same way you did your photographs. Ziploc makes Big Bags, in which even bedding and clothes fit, so your albums should fit very well. Tape these bags shut across the seal, with shipping tape, and then finish protecting them as you did your photos. Remember to include an I.D. tag and desiccant or silica powder packets. • If it floods above the four (4) feet, the bin will hopefully float up. Should the roof be torn off and the bin blown away, whomever finds it should be able to identify and contact the owner (you), and your items should be safe and dry. Other important paper items to include in your Emergency Evacuation Kit—which you should take with you every time you evacuate—include but are not limited to the following: • All legal documents possible. These would include birth/death/marriage certificates, divorce decrees, alimony/palimony and child support orders, legal name-change documents, passports, and Social Security cards. • Proof of any and all insurance, which could include the Declarations Page of every insurance policy you own (Homeowner’s, Renter’s, Auto, Boat, Commercial, etc.). Also bring your Health Insurance or Medicare and Medicaid cards. Make sure whatever records you bring of your insurance includes: o Full names of all insurance companies o Contact phone numbers for all insurance companies o Policy numbers for each insurance policy o Effective dates of coverage for each policy o If you have an Insurance Agent, have their full contact information (company name, if any; phone number with Area Code; e-mail address; and postal mailing address) o If you have pet insurance, include all the above for their insurance information, too! • A list with the names, addresses, and phone numbers of ALL of the physicians that currently treat you and your family members, for any reason. • A list of every medication (including over-the-counter or herbal preparations) being taken, with the name of the person taking the medication. Also include, for each person listed, the doctor who prescribed the medication, the full name of the medication, the strength, and how it is supposed to be taken. Note any other special medical or physical needs that you or your family members may have. • If you have a Handicapped Placard for a motor vehicle, make sure you bring it, too, along with your Mobility Impairment ID. • Don’t forget your pets’ health information! You need to bring vaccination certificates for each pet, along with any medications or special needs items they have, just like for your family members. List the pets’ names, veterinarian’s name, address, phone number, and any medications your pet(s) take on the same list as you put your family’s medications. • For durability and to make them waterproof, laminate the medical information documents, as well. For safekeeping, make another laminated copy of this document and give it to another family member in case you lose yours. • For those of you who are able to, you may want to consider scanning all of the above information to your computer (papers and photos) and either burning it all to a CD or DVD, or at least having a copy of it all on a removable thumb drive or jump drive. Doing this would mean a lot less paperwork to keep track of when you evacuate, but it would also be absolutely essential that you not lose it as you evacuate! If you do this, you may want to make a couple copies and give one to each family member. You probably would not need an excessive amount of memory on the removable drive, for just this paperwork and photos. They are inexpensive enough, and a lot of them come on a key fob or lanyard so you can easily keep track of them. While there are no guarantees in life, the above tips should help to protect your photos and memorabilia, as well as the documentation necessary to get on with your life after the hurricane is gone. *We are recommending Ziploc brand because they have the tightest seal we have found. Most generics that we tried did not seal as well. Plus, Ziploc makes Double Guard Freezer Bags in Medium and Large sizes that are essentially a bag in a bag, with a double zipper. These are recommended, but you can use regular Ziploc bags if you cannot find the Double Guard bags. The above information resulted from the collaborative effort of Deidra Luquette Famularo and Marlane Mayo after both lost immeasurable amounts of information, crafting tools, supplies, samples, and many photographs in Hurricane Katrina because of the destruction of the first Scrappersaurus Store in Metairie, Louisiana, August 29, 2005. We hope that our losses were not in vain, and the knowledge gained from it helps YOU to protect YOUR memories. Please feel free to e-mail us any comments or ideas that you may have to improve upon these Suggestions. Revised August 9, 2009 |
“Having problems inserting a completed page into the sheet
protector in your scrapbook? Here is a great tip to keep those
embellishments and photos beautiful. Take the blank page
that comes in the sheet protector or other scrapbook paper
(use the same size as your finished page) and place it over
your completed page. Then just slide it into the protector.
With one hand hold your completed page and the protector
together on the tip-top and remove the plain page with your
other hand. Your work will look fantastic!”
protector in your scrapbook? Here is a great tip to keep those
embellishments and photos beautiful. Take the blank page
that comes in the sheet protector or other scrapbook paper
(use the same size as your finished page) and place it over
your completed page. Then just slide it into the protector.
With one hand hold your completed page and the protector
together on the tip-top and remove the plain page with your
other hand. Your work will look fantastic!”
| How to Get Your Cricut Personal to Multi-cut I discovered a pretty cool Cricut trick the other day while playing with my Cricut markers. I know that the original Cricut (which is the one I have) does not have a multi-cut feature like the Expression does, but I figured out how to “trick” the original Cricut into doing a multi-cut. When you use the Cricut markers, select the shape you want to draw—with your marker in the blade housing—and then press CUT, to have it draw. Then you hit LOAD PAPER to bring the paper back to the spot where it first began drawing. You replace the marker with the blade, and then press REPEAT LAST. The Cricut then cuts out right where you drew. To “trick” your Cricut into a multi-cut, all you have to do is start with a new piece of paper/chipboard lined up in the corner of your mat. Load the paper, and select your shape, then cut. Next hit the LOAD PAPER button, and it will bring your paper back to the point where it started cutting. Hit the REPEAT LAST button, and then cut. It will cut in the same exact lines as it did the last time. Voila! Multi-cut! Just be careful not to press UNLOAD PAPER because when you reload it, it will not line up exactly with the first cut! Submitted by Scrappersaurus Design Team Member, Heather Landry |
Extremely Easy Faux Stitching!!!
I came across this technique in one of my (many) craft books, and thought I’d
share. A lot of people love the look of stitching on their layouts and cards, but are
hesitant to actually stitch on them. Well, now you don’t have to actually use a
needle and thread! Simply use one of the many rotary perforating tools that many
manufacturers now make and a dye ink pad. Run the perforating tool over the ink
pad to pick up ink on the prongs, and then run it on your paper where you want the
faux stitching to appear. You will have to keep a close eye and see when you need
to re-ink, but the results will be fabulous, and will take a LOT less time than actual
stitching! Please send me pics of your finished projects using this technique, and I
will be happy to post them here with this tip!
Dee
I came across this technique in one of my (many) craft books, and thought I’d
share. A lot of people love the look of stitching on their layouts and cards, but are
hesitant to actually stitch on them. Well, now you don’t have to actually use a
needle and thread! Simply use one of the many rotary perforating tools that many
manufacturers now make and a dye ink pad. Run the perforating tool over the ink
pad to pick up ink on the prongs, and then run it on your paper where you want the
faux stitching to appear. You will have to keep a close eye and see when you need
to re-ink, but the results will be fabulous, and will take a LOT less time than actual
stitching! Please send me pics of your finished projects using this technique, and I
will be happy to post them here with this tip!
Dee
| Shortcuts for Holiday Cards and Other Papercrafts Tying Bows on Cards A lot of people love to use ribbons on their holiday cards, and when you find the right one, it can really set your card apart and make it stand out above the rest. One very quick and easy way to make “bows” on your card is actually not a tied bow, at all. It’s very simple and quick, and can save you a lot of time and hassle if you’re making a number of cards. Here’s how: 1. Once you’ve chosen your ribbon and chosen where you want your “bow” on your card, punch two holes side-by-side large enough for your ribbon to pass through easily, but not so large that you see empty space around the ribbon once it is threaded through. You can test the ribbon you’re using and the hole size on a scrap piece of paper before you actually punch your card, to be sure it’s the right size. (FYI: Scrappersaurus sells three different sized hole punches for $1.99 each.) 2. Thread each end of your ribbon through the holes from the front. Turn card over so you’re looking at the ends of the ribbon on the back. 3. Take a ribbon slide or buckle and slide both ends of the ribbon through. (FYI: Scrappersaurus sells both ribbon slides and buckles, individually and in bulk!) 4. Take the left side of the ribbon and, with it wrapped over the buckle or ribbon slide, push it back through the left hole in the card. Repeat for the right side. 5. Flip your card over to the front and snug up the ends of the ribbon so it doesn’t move or come out. The ribbon slide or buckle will be flat against the back of your card. 6. Pinch the tip of each side of your ribbon, and cut it at an angle towards your other hand to make an inverted “V” in the end of the ribbon. If you cut at an angle away from your other hand, you will have a “V” shape (pointed end). All done! Isn’t that easier than wrangling the ribbon and trying to tie an actual bow?! Another plus of using this technique is that the ribbon sits flatter on the card; it fits in the envelope easier, as well as on a scrapbook page if the recipient scraps their cards. And, best of all, it uses a lot less ribbon, so you can use your favorite ribbon on more projects! Best Scissors for Ribbon or Fibers If you’re a ribbon fanatic (as I know many of you are!), the best scissors we have found for cutting ribbon and fibers of any kind are the Tim Holtz Non-Stick Micro Serrated scissors made by Tonic Studios. They cut and snip (at the very tip even) very cleanly without snagging fibers or fabric at all, and they even cut through light wires, metal, plastic, acetate, zip-ties, chipboard, cardboard, rubber, and of course, paper! The non-stick coating ensures that cutting through adhesives will not gum up the blades, and the cushiony handles are designed to be comfortable even with cutting for very long periods of time. We sell a lot of these, and usually our crafters purchase them initially and then their husbands figure out how great they are for shop use, and we end up selling them to the husbands as well! They make an excellent, very versatile tool to have for crafting, and definitely a wonderful gift to give or receive. Un-Du Saves the Day!!! A must-have for many types of crafters (and a great kitchen assistant) is a bottle of Un Du. This little miracle-worker actually neutralizes adhesive long enough for you to pick up a misplaced stamp, sticker, or other embellishment that was adhered with a dry adhesive (not liquid glue), and then allows you to reposition it properly once it has evaporated. It evaporates extremely fast and is scrapbook-safe. It does not stain your paper, and will not make your journaling or papers “bleed”, and I’ve even used it on photographs! It comes in a bottle with a scoop-type “collar” that you simply slide under the edge of whatever you’re trying to remove; allow the liquid to flow out of the bottle onto the sticker, and then slide the collar completely under the sticker and pick it up in its entirety. You then turn the sticker over (adhesive side up) and allow the Un-Du to evaporate, and then position it where you need it to be. It’s THAT simple! (Yes, Scrappersaurus sells Un-Du, as well!) I hope these tips help make your cardmaking and other paper crafts easier. If you have any questions or any tips you’d like to share, please write to me at Scrappersaurus@Yahoo.com. Happy Holidays! Dee |
| A lot of people ask, “How do I color in stamped images?” and a lot of people ask, “What are Fantastix used for?” I can answer both questions, and give you a new technique with the following information. Fantastix (manufactured by Tsukineko; click here to buy from us) are indispensable when coloring in stamped images, and we use them in all our stamping classes. They are considered an ideal accessory for stamping and scrapbooking, as well as fabric arts because of their unbelievable versatility. These are disposable, un-inked, and reusable applicators that you can use to color in your stamped images. They are wonderful for easily blending colors and adding accents. Of course, the brush tip is for fine, detail work, and the bullet tip is used for larger areas and shading. Fantastix work with inks, chalks, paints, bleach, mineral spirits, watercolors, wood stains, and glue. They can also be used for stenciling and needle arts, touch ups, and lots more. You can use them for just about anything you would normally apply with a brush, cotton swab, or sponge applicator. For chalking, simply use the Fantastix to apply and blend your colors—always working with the lightest color first. When you are finished with the first color, simply roll the tip of the Fantastix onto a clean piece of scratch paper until the color stops coming off. You can then use it on another, darker color in the same color family. If you have cleaned it properly, it will not transfer the original color, but it will keep a color stain. To use the Fantastix with inks, dip the tip of the Fantastix into the bottle of ink or reinker bottle, or simply hold it down on an inkpad and let it absorb the ink. Then use the Fantastix as you would a marker, and color in your project. Again, when you finish using one color, clean it by simply rinsing it with plain water—squishing the ink out the tip as you rinse it. Do not use soap! Once the water runs clear, dry the tip by gently squeezing it with a dry towel, and then you can re-use it in the same color family, just like with the chalks. It will not transfer the color, but it will keep a stain. I find most people normally keep one Fantastix each for use with yellows, reds/oranges, blues/greens/purples, and black. These are considered disposable, and only cost about 65 cents apiece, so once the tip becomes fluffy and unusable, simply discard, and use a new one. Some have found, however, that on the brush tip ones, if you use a sharp pair of scissors, you can carefully snip the point back into shape and use it a bit longer. Do NOT sharpen them, though, as they will crumble! There are many more uses for these wonderful little marvels, and much more in-depth information on coloring, blending, and shading, but this should get you started. I hope you get a chance to try these out, and I’m pretty sure you’ll think they’re as great as I do. As with any of our products, please feel free to call with any questions you may have in their use. Dee Famularo, Owner and Papercrafter of 40+ years |
RUB-ONS: EVERYTHING YOU EVER WANTED (OR NEEDED) TO KNOW
What IS a rub-on? A rub-on is actually ink (alphabet, symbol, word, image) printed in reverse on a special backing
paper that allows it to be transferred (by rubbing) onto another surface.
Why use a rub-on? Rub-ons are an excellent choice in place of stickers because they appear to be actually printed
or painted on the surface to which you apply them. They are rich and elegant-looking, and they offer a lot more
flexibility and variety in how and what you apply as opposed to a set word or image in a sticker. For instance, you
can use just a piece of an image, or just one alphabet in a word, if that is all you want to use to complete your
design and make it more personal.
What surfaces can rub-ons be applied to? The greater majority of rub-ons can safely be applied to paper,
transparencies, vellum, hand-made paper, leather, wood, plastic, acrylic, ceramic, tiles, stones, pottery, and most
fabrics. You may even find other surfaces they work on—experiment!
Is there a special way to handle rub-ons? Yes!!! You NEVER want to hold a rub-on package directly over the rub-
on itself, because the heat of your finger(s) or hand will actually soften the ink and the rub-on will begin to transfer
to the protective top sheet. Instead, hold the rub-on package by the top or side, where you will not be directly on
top of the image.
How should rub-ons be stored? Rub-ons are extremely sensitive to heat, so always store them in a temperature-
controlled environment, like your home or craft room. NEVER leave rub-ons in the heat of your car, be it in the
trunk inside your tote, or in the back seat! And definitely do not store them in a closet in the bathroom, where
the heat and humidity of even a hot shower can ruin them. (Yes, I have had customers who stored their
scrapbook supplies—and even photographs—in bathroom closets! Oh, no!!!)
How do I pick a good rub-on, and know it will transfer properly? Always purchase your rub-ons from a reputable
retailer that you know has fresh stock. The reason for this is because rub-ons—being made of ink—have a
tendency to dry out over longer periods of time, and once they have dried out, they usually will not transfer
completely, if at all. This is the main cause of frustration for rub on beginners, and the reason why rub-ons that
come from certain clearance stores don’t always work. If they have sat on the store’s shelves or in a warehouse
for a long time, the chances are pretty high that they won’t transfer properly.
How can I tell if a rub-on is fresh or should be safe to purchase? You can spot an old rub-on immediately, if you
know what to look for. A fresh rub-on that should transfer quickly and easily will be one that appears bright (if
colored) or very dark (if black, brown, or dark blue, green, or purple). If any part of the rub-on appears to have a
light spot in the image with the rest of it being brighter (or darker), then you can bet that the rub-on has already
dried a good bit and has begun to transfer off the backer sheet onto the protective top sheet. You can see this
happen, also, with fresh rub-ons, if someone mishandles them and holds them over the image, and the heat of
their hand begins the transfer process. So, even if you are sure the retailer has fresh stock, you still want to look
closely at your images to make sure it was handled properly before you picked it up!
What tools do I need to apply a rub-on? The best way I know of to apply a rub-on is with a bone folder, although
some manufacturers now make rub-on tools. Also, a lot of rub-ons come with little wooden or plastic applicator
sticks in the package. You can use that stick, or a bone folder, or even the back of a small spoon. You definitely
do NOT want to use a knife of any kind, especially one with serrations!
What is the proper procedure for applying a rub-on?
Carefully open your rub-ons and remove them from their package.
Hold gently by the edge of the page, then cut out the one you wish you apply. The reason for cutting it out is so
that when you are rubbing it on, you don’t accidentally rub over another image that you didn’t want to use yet.
And remember, because just the heat of your hand or finger(s) will soften the ink, you definitely don’t want to
hold your entire page of rub-ons down with one hand while you apply one from the middle of the page—this is a
sure way to waste rub-ons and ruin your project in the process!
After cutting out your rub-on, peel the clear top sheet away from the rub-on, and position it on your project.
Use removable tape (we sell Scotch removable tape) to tape your alphabet, word, or image onto your project so it
doesn’t move while rubbing. Otherwise, you may end up with crinkles in your image. Simply place the tape directly
across the entire back of the image, so you can rub over the whole thing.
Once your rub-on is taped to your project, place your fingers or even the palm of your hand on top of the rub-on
for a few seconds to allow the heat of your hand to soften the ink, and help it to transfer more quickly.
Next, use your rub-on tool or bone folder to gently rub over the image. It should become cloudy or milky, looking
at it through the backer paper, as the image transfers. If it still looks dark, it probably hasn’t transferred all the
way. You can lift an edge of the tape and backer paper to check it. When the image has transferred completely,
remove the tape and backer paper, and enjoy!
What happens if the entire image didn’t transfer? If the entire image did not transfer, simply place the rub-on
back in place, lining up the edges of the image that remain on the backer sheet with the parts of the image that did
transfer. Again, rub over it until it finishes transferring.
What happens if I get a rub-on that simply will NOT come off the backer sheet, but I REALLY want to use it?
Every once in a while, this will happen. When it does, you can trim around the image carefully, then apply adhesive
to the back of the backer sheet, and just adhere it like you would a transparency. If you do not have special
adhesive for a transparency (we sell the Vellum Glue Dots, which work excellently), then you can run it through a
Xyron so it puts adhesive on the entire back and you won’t see the adhesive.
What if I mess up, or decide I don’t like how the rub-on looks on my project; can I remove it? Usually, you can
“erase” it, with an adhesive eraser (we sell the ones by EK Success and Therm-O-Web). You have to be very
careful, and gently rub in ONE direction, pulling the ink off with the eraser. Clean the eraser as it picks up the ink,
so you don’t smear it. If all else fails, put a sticker or flower over it, to conceal it.
What IS a rub-on? A rub-on is actually ink (alphabet, symbol, word, image) printed in reverse on a special backing
paper that allows it to be transferred (by rubbing) onto another surface.
Why use a rub-on? Rub-ons are an excellent choice in place of stickers because they appear to be actually printed
or painted on the surface to which you apply them. They are rich and elegant-looking, and they offer a lot more
flexibility and variety in how and what you apply as opposed to a set word or image in a sticker. For instance, you
can use just a piece of an image, or just one alphabet in a word, if that is all you want to use to complete your
design and make it more personal.
What surfaces can rub-ons be applied to? The greater majority of rub-ons can safely be applied to paper,
transparencies, vellum, hand-made paper, leather, wood, plastic, acrylic, ceramic, tiles, stones, pottery, and most
fabrics. You may even find other surfaces they work on—experiment!
Is there a special way to handle rub-ons? Yes!!! You NEVER want to hold a rub-on package directly over the rub-
on itself, because the heat of your finger(s) or hand will actually soften the ink and the rub-on will begin to transfer
to the protective top sheet. Instead, hold the rub-on package by the top or side, where you will not be directly on
top of the image.
How should rub-ons be stored? Rub-ons are extremely sensitive to heat, so always store them in a temperature-
controlled environment, like your home or craft room. NEVER leave rub-ons in the heat of your car, be it in the
trunk inside your tote, or in the back seat! And definitely do not store them in a closet in the bathroom, where
the heat and humidity of even a hot shower can ruin them. (Yes, I have had customers who stored their
scrapbook supplies—and even photographs—in bathroom closets! Oh, no!!!)
How do I pick a good rub-on, and know it will transfer properly? Always purchase your rub-ons from a reputable
retailer that you know has fresh stock. The reason for this is because rub-ons—being made of ink—have a
tendency to dry out over longer periods of time, and once they have dried out, they usually will not transfer
completely, if at all. This is the main cause of frustration for rub on beginners, and the reason why rub-ons that
come from certain clearance stores don’t always work. If they have sat on the store’s shelves or in a warehouse
for a long time, the chances are pretty high that they won’t transfer properly.
How can I tell if a rub-on is fresh or should be safe to purchase? You can spot an old rub-on immediately, if you
know what to look for. A fresh rub-on that should transfer quickly and easily will be one that appears bright (if
colored) or very dark (if black, brown, or dark blue, green, or purple). If any part of the rub-on appears to have a
light spot in the image with the rest of it being brighter (or darker), then you can bet that the rub-on has already
dried a good bit and has begun to transfer off the backer sheet onto the protective top sheet. You can see this
happen, also, with fresh rub-ons, if someone mishandles them and holds them over the image, and the heat of
their hand begins the transfer process. So, even if you are sure the retailer has fresh stock, you still want to look
closely at your images to make sure it was handled properly before you picked it up!
What tools do I need to apply a rub-on? The best way I know of to apply a rub-on is with a bone folder, although
some manufacturers now make rub-on tools. Also, a lot of rub-ons come with little wooden or plastic applicator
sticks in the package. You can use that stick, or a bone folder, or even the back of a small spoon. You definitely
do NOT want to use a knife of any kind, especially one with serrations!
What is the proper procedure for applying a rub-on?
Carefully open your rub-ons and remove them from their package.
Hold gently by the edge of the page, then cut out the one you wish you apply. The reason for cutting it out is so
that when you are rubbing it on, you don’t accidentally rub over another image that you didn’t want to use yet.
And remember, because just the heat of your hand or finger(s) will soften the ink, you definitely don’t want to
hold your entire page of rub-ons down with one hand while you apply one from the middle of the page—this is a
sure way to waste rub-ons and ruin your project in the process!
After cutting out your rub-on, peel the clear top sheet away from the rub-on, and position it on your project.
Use removable tape (we sell Scotch removable tape) to tape your alphabet, word, or image onto your project so it
doesn’t move while rubbing. Otherwise, you may end up with crinkles in your image. Simply place the tape directly
across the entire back of the image, so you can rub over the whole thing.
Once your rub-on is taped to your project, place your fingers or even the palm of your hand on top of the rub-on
for a few seconds to allow the heat of your hand to soften the ink, and help it to transfer more quickly.
Next, use your rub-on tool or bone folder to gently rub over the image. It should become cloudy or milky, looking
at it through the backer paper, as the image transfers. If it still looks dark, it probably hasn’t transferred all the
way. You can lift an edge of the tape and backer paper to check it. When the image has transferred completely,
remove the tape and backer paper, and enjoy!
What happens if the entire image didn’t transfer? If the entire image did not transfer, simply place the rub-on
back in place, lining up the edges of the image that remain on the backer sheet with the parts of the image that did
transfer. Again, rub over it until it finishes transferring.
What happens if I get a rub-on that simply will NOT come off the backer sheet, but I REALLY want to use it?
Every once in a while, this will happen. When it does, you can trim around the image carefully, then apply adhesive
to the back of the backer sheet, and just adhere it like you would a transparency. If you do not have special
adhesive for a transparency (we sell the Vellum Glue Dots, which work excellently), then you can run it through a
Xyron so it puts adhesive on the entire back and you won’t see the adhesive.
What if I mess up, or decide I don’t like how the rub-on looks on my project; can I remove it? Usually, you can
“erase” it, with an adhesive eraser (we sell the ones by EK Success and Therm-O-Web). You have to be very
careful, and gently rub in ONE direction, pulling the ink off with the eraser. Clean the eraser as it picks up the ink,
so you don’t smear it. If all else fails, put a sticker or flower over it, to conceal it.